The sky is still dark when fishing boats begin to set sail in Saleh Bay.
The water is calm, the wind blows gently, and in the distance, a giant shadow moves beneath the surface. Whale sharks—the largest yet most gentle creatures of the sea—peek out from the water, as if greeting the fishermen and tourists who have come.
Saleh Bay, often called Indonesia’s “giant aquarium,” is home to dozens of whale sharks that return to these waters year after year.
It’s no coincidence that whale sharks choose this bay. Over the past five years, researchers have identified at least 108 individual whale sharks here. Interestingly, most of them return to Saleh Bay every year, as though something in these waters always calls them back.
“Our research from 2017 to 2022, conducted with the Government of Indonesia, shows that the whale shark population in Saleh Bay is dominated by young individuals, and their presence is recorded throughout the year,” said Mochamad Iqbal Dewangga Putra, lead author of the Preliminary Study: Portrait of Whale Shark Population, Habitat, and Economic Value for Conservation Area Development in Saleh Bay 2017–2022, published by the Cakrawala Indonesia Conservation Foundation in February 2025.
Ecotourism: Blessing or Threat?
In recent years, the people of Labuhan Jambu Village have seen an opportunity in the presence of these whale sharks. They have developed community-based tourism—inviting visitors to swim alongside the giants under strict rules: no touching, no feeding, and no using loud-motor boats that could harm them.
The tourism business has grown rapidly. In 2019, recorded revenue reached IDR 327 million, with nearly half going directly into the pockets of local residents—an enticing figure indeed.
If managed properly, ecotourism can be a solution. But if left unchecked, it can turn into a double-edged sword. Too many boats and too many people could discourage whale sharks from returning. Similar cases have happened in other parts of the world—where wildlife eventually leaves due to constant disturbance. Will Saleh Bay face the same fate?
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Conservation: Between Hope and Challenge
Local governments and conservation groups are not sitting idle. In 2022, a six-meter male whale shark was tagged with a satellite tracker and given the name “Haji Mo.” The name may sound amusing for a whale shark, but it carries a deeper meaning—as a symbol of conservation efforts in the region.
In 2025, the Whale Shark Education Center officially opened in Labuhan Jambu. Here, locals and tourists can learn more about the whale shark’s role in the marine ecosystem—that they are not merely a tourist attraction but also vital guardians of ocean balance.
But how significant is the impact of this educational effort? Is it strong enough to change a mindset that has long prioritized short-term economic gain?
Looming Threats
The greatest challenge for conservation in Saleh Bay is not just uncontrolled tourism. There are more immediate threats—illegal fishing using bombs and trawl nets. These methods not only kill vast numbers of fish but also destroy the ecosystem that provides food for whale sharks.
“Only about 23% of whale shark hotspot areas are under formal protection through conservation zones, while most key areas remain exposed to human threats, such as irresponsible fishing and tourism,” Mochamad further explained.
On top of that, mangrove forest degradation is another looming danger. Every hectare of mangroves lost means less natural protection for these waters. Without mangroves, the tiny shrimp (krill) that whale sharks feed on will struggle to reproduce. And if their food disappears, will they still return to Saleh Bay? (Sulung Prasetyo)
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