A journey through the heart of Java would feel incomplete without visiting Mount Lawu. Straddling the border between Central Java and East Java, this mountain holds countless stories—ancient temples, secluded waterfalls once used for meditation, the local tradition of eating rabbit satay, sulfuric craters, and even the legendary resting place of the last Majapahit king at its summit.
With careful planning, it’s possible to explore most of Lawu’s highlights in just two days and one night. That was exactly what I did during a weekend trip in late July 2012.
The adventure began in Solo, Central Java, early in the morning. From there, the route leads toward Tawangmangu and on to Sarangan. Along this road, travelers pass several remnants of the Majapahit Kingdom.
The first must-see stop is the temple complexes of Cetho and Sukuh, located on the northern slopes of Lawu. These are believed to be among the last temples built under King Brawijaya V, the final ruler of Majapahit. The complexes consist mainly of terraced sanctuaries for worship, resembling prehistoric punden berundak. The carvings are especially fascinating. At Sukuh Temple, one relief depicts warriors in attire resembling Aryan soldiers—similar to the builders of pyramids in the Andes.
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Back on the road to Tawangmangu, the next stop is Grojogan Sewu Waterfall, one of the tallest on Java at 81 meters. Visitors can climb the nearby stairway to view the cascade from above, but the real treat is soaking in the cool pool at its base.
By then, hunger usually sets in. Fortunately, food stalls around the waterfall serve the region’s specialty: rabbit satay. According to some sources, this culinary tradition dates back to Majapahit times. Once a delicacy for kings, today anyone can savor it—so long as they can pay the modest price.
Continuing toward Sarangan, travelers will come across the Research Center for Medicinal Plants (Balai Penelitian Tanaman Obat). Its gardens hold a collection of herbs once used in Majapahit-era remedies. Visitors can even learn about ancient recipes for treating various illnesses.
Further along lies Poncolono, a site known for its sulfur baths and sweeping views over East Java. At sunset, the panorama is breathtaking—rolling forests, winding roads, and distant towns glowing in the fading light.
Before night falls, it’s best to return to Tawangmangu, where accommodations are plentiful and range in price and comfort. Rest is essential, as the following day is reserved for the climb to Lawu’s summit.
The Path to the Summit
The spiritual legacy of Majapahit is not only found in its temples, cuisine, and herbal knowledge—it also lingers at the peak of Mount Lawu, where King Brawijaya V is believed to have attained moksa (spiritual liberation).
From Tawangmangu, hikers typically start at Cemoro Kandang, located just before the provincial border. In total, there are three official routes: Cemoro Sewu, Cemoro Kandang, and Cetho Temple. Cemoro Sewu is shorter but steep, while Cetho Temple is long and demanding, taking up to 13 hours. Cemoro Kandang offers the best balance—a gentler slope accessible to hikers of all ages with good stamina, requiring only slightly more time than Cemoro Sewu.
After registering at the trailhead, the trek begins with an hour’s walk to the first post, Taman Sari Bawah (2,300 meters above sea level). The path continues through light forest toward the second post, Taman Sari Atas, where hikers can glimpse the steaming Candradimuko Crater.
From here, the trail winds through valleys before reaching a “shadow post,” followed by a longer climb to Post 3, Penggik, which takes about 90 minutes. This section rewards hikers with panoramic views as the forest thins, revealing the surrounding mountains.
The trail becomes rockier and steeper on the way to Post 4, Cokro Suryo, but the fatigue is offset by the beauty of its grassy plateau nestled between peaks. The site is still used for rituals, and offerings can often be found scattered among the grass.
Beyond Cokro Suryo, hikers traverse a saddle ridge. Soon, the summit of Lawu—Hargo Dumilah—comes into view. Before reaching it, however, there is a junction leading to Cemoro Sewu. Just beyond lies Mbok Yem’s legendary warung, the highest food stall in Java, always open to serve warm meals to weary hikers. From the junction, a final 30-minute climb leads to Hargo Dumilah, marked by a monument at Lawu’s peak.
Not far from Mbok Yem’s stall is another sacred site: Hargo Dalem, believed to be the place where King Brawijaya V attained moksa. A small shrine with twin pillars marks the spot, which draws pilgrims every Muharram for ritual offerings.
The entire ascent from Cemoro Kandang takes about six hours, while the descent requires roughly four. In total, a round trip can be completed in 10 hours. With such a manageable timeframe, there’s no need to overpack—just bring enough food, water, and transport arrangements for the return to Solo by evening. (Sulung Prasetyo)
