The first thing I saw in a land of thaousand fish – after clearing my dive mask – was a mate waving frantically and pointing down. His palm stood upright above his head, it is the universal sign for a shark. My heart skipped a beat. Sure enough, there it was, gliding right below my fins.
Lucky for me, it wasn’t the bitey kind. A black-tip reef shark, cool and calm, was cruising lazily along the coral. It didn’t seem the slightest bit fussed about the clumsy human floating above it.
Just as I started to relax, another tap on the shoulder — this time, a green turtle drifting overhead. It moved like it had all the time in the world, nibbling on bits of algae from dead coral. Watching it float so gracefully made me forget there was even a shark around.
Batu Bolong — a Diver’s Dream
We were diving at Batu Bolong, one of the most famous spots in Indonesia’s Komodo National Park. The place was alive — hundreds of fish swirling like confetti in every direction. Among them was a delicate butterfly fish with a long snout and bright yellow stripes darting through the blue.
Marine biologists say over a thousand species of fish live in the waters between Flores and Sumbawa. Everything from tiny reef dwellers to huge pelagic hunters. It’s easy to believe once you’re down there, surrounded by life on all sides.
Getting there is easy enough. There are direct flights from Jakarta to Labuan Bajo, the small harbour town that’s the jumping-off point for Komodo. From above, you can already see the turquoise shimmer of the national park.
At the dock, I was greeted by Condo Subagyo, owner of CNDive, who runs trips around the islands on his sturdy wooden boat, Bintang Laut. She’s not a luxury yacht, but she’s got everything you need — cabins, a bathroom, and two decks for lounging between dives. With room for around 25 people, it’s the perfect base for a few days at sea.
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The Power of the Current
Our first stop: Batu Bolong. The rock juts out of the sea like a fang, with a hole through the middle and a reputation for wicked currents. Even before we left Jakarta, we were warned: this dive isn’t for the faint-hearted. The channel between Komodo and the neighbouring islands funnels water like a firehose — what’s fun for fish can be chaos for divers.
The moment we dropped in, the current grabbed us. It was hard work just staying in one place, let alone descending. Still, once we got the hang of it, the scene below was worth every kick — swirling fish, pristine coral, and the occasional big shadow that made your pulse quicken.
Not all those shadows are sharks. Sometimes it’s a massive Napoleon wrasse or a graceful manta ray. There’s even a spot nearby called Manta Alley, where you can float in the current while these gentle giants fly past like underwater birds.
Shotgun Ride
The next day, we headed north to Shotgun, another site famous for strong currents. Here, two tidal flows meet head-on, creating a wild underwater rollercoaster. Experienced divers love it — you just let the current take you for a ride, twisting and turning through the reef. Panic, though, and it’ll toss you around like laundry in a washing machine.
The dive starts at around 10 metres deep, with visibility so good you can see 15 metres ahead. The sandy bottom ends in a narrow passage leading up toward a cliff. When you reach it, the current pushes you gently upwards until you pop out at the surface — no effort required, just go with the flow.
Pink Sands and Peaceful Waters
Not every dive in Komodo is a thrill ride. In front of Pink Beach, where the sand glows a soft blush from crushed coral, the water is calm and perfect for beginners. You won’t see as many fish here, but for snorkellers or free divers, it’s magic — clear, gentle, and endlessly photogenic.
Komodo is world-famous for its dragons, but what lies beneath the surface is just as wild. According to the park’s director, Sustyo Iriyono, there are at least 40 dive sites scattered across the area. You could spend years exploring and still not see it all.
The beauty of Komodo’s seas isn’t just in the colours or the creatures — it’s in the feeling of being part of something ancient and alive. When you rise to the surface after a dive, the sun warm on your face and the sound of the sea all around, it’s hard not to think: this really is the land of a thousand fish. (Sulung Prasetyo)
