A new climbing route has been established on the south face of Mount Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest mountain. Three Colombian climbers successfully ascended a section of the mountain long considered too dangerous and unstable because of steep ice, loose rock, and constant avalanche threats.
The ascent was completed by Nestor Contreras, Alexander Chaves, and Felipe Galvis, who opened the direct line on Chimborazo’s South Face using a lightweight alpine-style approach without fixed ropes or high camps.
Mount Chimborazo stands at approximately 6,241 meters above sea level. Although lower than Everest, its summit is considered the point on Earth farthest from the planet’s center due to the equatorial bulge.
Tackling the Dangerous South Face
Most climbers traditionally choose the classic Whymper Route or South Ridge, which are considered safer and more established. In contrast, Chimborazo’s south face has a reputation for unstable terrain caused by glacier retreat, rockfall, and rapidly changing weather conditions.
According to reports from Desnivel, the Colombian team encountered mixed terrain of hard ice and loose rock with slopes ranging between 65 and 85 degrees. Several sections passed beneath fragile cliffs exposed to frequent rockfall and snow avalanches.
The climbers named the new line “Marco Cruz 2026” in honor of veteran Ecuadorian mountain guide Marco Cruz, who reportedly confirmed that the route had never been climbed before.
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Fast and Lightweight Alpine Style
The ascent was carried out in pure alpine style. The trio completed the round trip from basecamp in roughly 14 hours while carrying all their own equipment and water supplies.
Most of the climb was done without ropes to increase speed and efficiency. They only used ropes during the descent along the same route.
In modern mountaineering, alpine style is widely respected because it relies on speed, technical skill, and minimal equipment instead of fixed ropes, stocked camps, or large expedition logistics.
Chimborazo and the Andes Climbing Legacy
Chimborazo remains one of the most iconic mountains in the Andes. The dormant volcano was first climbed in 1880 by Edward Whymper alongside two Italian climbers.
Beyond its altitude, Chimborazo is known for rapidly changing weather, powerful Andean winds, and tropical glaciers that create physically demanding climbing conditions.
In recent years, Ecuador’s Andes have regained attention among international climbers. Mountains such as El Altar and Cayambe are also recognized for their technical routes and relatively untouched climbing potential.
The successful opening of a new route on Chimborazo highlights how exploration in mountaineering is still evolving. Even on mountains that have been climbed for more than a century, climbers continue searching for new lines on walls once considered impossible. (Sulung Prasetyo)
